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Sun
5 May 2002
Leaving Rolleston we drive to Springsure which, unlike
Rolleston, seems to have had a facelift since last
we were there.
Apparently
there is a correctional facility here and the inmates
are responsible for many beautification and capital
works around the town.
We
park at the rest area a couple of kilometres north
of town and have lunch. While eating I hear a lot
of gunshots nearby and, bearing in mind the aforementioned
correctional facility, wonder if this is such a good
place to stop.
Despite
that, I get on a bike and ride through the nearby
Minerva Hills National Park to the top of the rugged
cliffs that backdrop the town, looking for a camp
site.
From
the top I can see the truck and, not far away, a rifle
range. I guess that explains the shots. I don't find
a suitable site however so we decide to head for Emerald.
At about 3PM we turn off onto the Lake Maraboon road
and, shortly after, pull into the extensive picnic
area.
There's
"No camping" and "Definitely no camping"
signs everywhere, what a shame, it's such a nice place.
We decide to have a cuppa anyway and then go for a
walk before getting back on the highway to look for
somewhere to stay for the night.
While
walking we notice that several tents are pitched further
around the shore and think that this should be investigated,
so I get a bike out and ride off.
Riding
around the lake I am struck by two things, the abundance
of "No camping" signs (seemingly on every
tree) and the equal abundance of campers (seemingly
under every sign).

"Sign?, I never saw no sign officer". |
It
is a long weekend and people are everywhere so maybe
the authorities are cutting a little slack.
I
decide to ask, "Oh the police were here a while
back" one group said, "told us to move on
within 24 hours" (which just conveniently is
the end of the long weekend).
I
ask someone from another group, "Dunno"
he said, "just pitch your swag anywhere".
He then looks at my bike and follows with "That
little thing won't take up much room anyway ".
I assure him that it came from something much larger
and rode off.
We
move the truck to a private spot away from the other
campers and settle in for a quiet night, right on
the shore of the lake.

Wothahellizat parked
on the shores of Lake Maraboon. |
Mon
6 May
I spend the day lazing around and walking the banks
of the lake with a camera.

Trees framing the lake.

What was that song? "Sign, sign,
everywhere a sign, blocking out the scenery..."

Rock formations on the shores of Lake
Maraboon.
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While
walking I notice Denys and Anne (we camped with them
at Baralaba) parked so I tell them about the campsites
further around the lake. They drive around and set
up.
Tue
7 May
We move into the 20-hour camp site in Emerald. It's
very conveniently placed at the end of the main street
but also very noisy as it's below both the railway
and road bridges.
I
will usually sleep through anything but Chris won't
and this campsite is notorious for it's continuous
noise as trains shunt on one bridge and trucks compression
brake on the other.
Amazingly
we both sleep soundly, not hearing a thing all night.
Wed
8 May
Leaving Emerald we head for the gemfields. There is
supposed to be a reserve set aside for CMCA members
at Rubyvale so we plan to go there but as we drive
through Sapphire we notice Denys & Anne camped
in the grounds of CD Downunder Gems.
They
also notice us and flag us down. It seems that the
Rubyvale reserve has been closed, something about
the local caravan park owner complaining, and his
son is on the council. Now where have I heard that
story before?
Anyhow
the good folk at CD Downunder are encouraging members
to stay on their grounds so that's exactly what we
do.
I
have no interest in fossicking so I spend the day
exploring the area with a camera while Chris reads.

The store at Rubyvale.

You too can own a piece of the mining
dream.

This old White truck and float has seen
better days.
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The
entire area is a collection of old machinery and barren
land. To be fair, all of central Queensland is in
drought at the moment and not looking its best, but
I can think of no reason to come here unless you're
into fossicking for gems.

An eroded tailings heap. |
Denys
bought a wheel barrow of "wash" and he spends
the day washing, sieving and sorting it. He does find
a few nice stones and Anne has some set into a ring
and a pendant.
Before
leaving Sapphire we ask the owners of CD Downunder
about the road to Alpha. They assure me that there
are no hills except for one on the Drummond Range.
There
may be no hills to a car driver but to a 30-year old
truck there's plenty, which just shows the futility
of asking in the first place.
Sat
11 May
We spend three days in the quaint little town of Alpha,
who's main claim to fame is its murals which have
been painted on many walls throughout the town.

The main street of Alpha.

One of the many murals that give Alpha
its character.

Most of these signs refer to "stations"
that have driveways down this road. The
washdown facility is for trucks to remove
Parthenium weed.
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The
locals are also very friendly, while walking around
the town almost every passing motorist waves.
And
speaking of waving, it's fairly customary to wave
to other motorists when driving in country Australia
but usually to drivers of vehicles of similar type.
But it seems that everyone waves to Wothahellizat.
We've
been waved at by motorcyclists, caravaners, truckies,
school kids, car drivers, ambulance drivers and police
to name a few. But when we pass a train today and
the driver waves Chris can't contain herself and bursts
out laughing.
Sun
12 May
We stop for lunch in the main street of Jericho. After
eating we walk the street and on returning Chris notices
some oil under the front of the truck.
Further
investigation reveals a crack in the sump, caused
by the diff hitting it. We did cop a nasty bash the
other day and another this morning. The distance between
the diff and sump is less than that between the bumpstops
so it was just a matter of time before something happened.
The
leak isn't bad and we only have 80k to go so I rub
some soap on it and we leave town.
After
a couple of hours we pull into Barcaldine (Barcy)
and set up camp in the showgrounds. Most of the other
volunteers are here and tomorrow we start work. (The
CMCA's national rally starts next week and a few of
us have volunteered to set up the showgrounds for
the rally).
Mon
13 May
The first day on the job. All volunteers working on
siting meet in the grounds under a tree initially
called the "tree of knowledge", a reference
to the famous tree in town, but that soon became known
as the "tree of know-alls".
For
a couple of days we mark out over a thousand campsites
in readiness for the mass influx of motorhomes and
campervans in a few days.
Wed
15 May
The rally preparations are going well so we have some
slack time. I go into town to buy some ice cream and,
on leaving the store, I notice a Coaster motor home
and car trailer turning into the BP service station.
The
angle of the trailer doesn't look right and I think
to myself "He'll get stuck". Sure enough
the rig stops dead with the trailer across the main
street.
I
ride up to find the owner looking at his tow bar firmly
buried into the bitumen. The rear wheels of the bus
are only just touching the road and they simply spin
when he tries to drive. I tell him that I can see
two methods of extraction, jack up the rear axle and
pack under the wheels, or get a tow.
As
I have ice cream in my pack I have to leave but I
say that I'll be back soon to help if needed.
Ten
minutes later I return to find a three-trailer road
train and a B-double stopped in the street, unable
to pass the stuck trailer. More traffic is banking
up and the owner of the stuck vehicle is getting a
bit frazzled. What he probably doesn't appreciate
though is that, with all this traffic banked up, the
problem has partly transferred itself to others who
now have an interest in freeing the stranded motor
home.
And
help is at hand, the road train driver supplies a
chain, the service station operator comes up with
a 4WD, and with a mighty heave and scraping of metal
the stranded Coaster is free.
Sat
18 May
The tools are out again. I drain the sump and apply
some two-part epoxy to the crack. So far so good but
I'll have to wait until the engine gets hot to see
if it really works.
That
should fix the leak but not the problem that caused
it in the first place, so I decide to put a 12mm spacer
between the springs and the axle. I would like to
use a larger spacer but 12mm is as much as I can insert
without using longer U-bolts.
I
ride into town but it's Saturday afternoon and there
is nobody open to buy some steel from. On my return
John (our neighbour in "Old Yello") had
been across to talk to the guys fabricating some new
cattle yards. They can supply some steel so I buy
two lengths of 3x1/2" flat bar.
Sun
19 May
John & I jack up the front axle, make the spacers
from the flat bar obtained yesterday and put them
in. It's a simple job but still takes all morning
because the wheels have to be removed and we cross-thread
a nut so spend time repairing the U-bolt thread.
Mon
20 May
The rally officially starts today and we are expecting
about 650 motor homes to arrive. I work most of the
day on siting and by 6PM I've had enough.

The main street of Barcy has six pubs, this
is one of the more colourful. |
Wed
29 May
This morning I thought I'd ride out to the weir just
south of town. It's reputed to be a nice camping spot
and we might go there for a few days but I like to
check places out first.
I
get on the motor bike and head off through town. Being
the thorough type I check that the fuel valve is on
"open" and not "reserve". No problems.
I
turn left on the Blackall road and after five kilometres
encounter the turnoff to the weir. Taking the narrow
road I cross the cattle grid and ride west towards
the weir.
The
engine falters a bit so I recheck the fuel valve.
No worries, I ride on.
The
engine falters again, and dies. I reach down to change
the fuel valve to reserve, oops, it's already on reserve.
So much for checking, it's amazing how you see what
you expect to see.
I
grind to a halt in the middle of the road. It's 5k
back to the highway and another 5k into town. Nothing
for it but to hide the bike and start walking, it
will take about two hours.
While
pushing the bike off the road I start thinking that
there may still be a little fuel in the tank. Removing
the filler cap reveals a small amount of petrol and
I reason that I may be able to ride some of the way
back by tilting the tank.
I
tilt the bike to the left, the side of the fuel pickup,
shake it to load fuel down into the carburettor and
hit the starter. Sure enough the engine fires. I get
straight back on the road, riding slowly back to town.
The
engine still stalls every 500m or so but by repeating
the tilt-and-shake procedure I manage to get about
four kilometres before it finally fails and refuses
to start. I hide the bike in the bushes, place a log
on the roadside to mark the spot, and hit the bitumen.
Within
fifteen minutes I am back on the highway. I had been
hitching but with no luck as there was almost no traffic
on the side road. There was however quite a lot of
traffic on the highway but most vehicles are leaving
town, not much good to me.
It's
not easy getting a lift in the middle of nowhere with
a number two haircut and full beard. The other problem
with hitching is that people often take a while to
think about stopping and by then they're too far down
the road to bother.
As
I walk past the town garbage tip I decide to change
my strategy. Figuring that some of those approaching
me would be going to the tip then returning to town
I start giving a friendly wave to anyone with a trailer.
Some return the wave but when a couple of council
workers in a garbage truck do so I am confident my
walk is nearly at an end.
Minutes
later they return and pick me up.
Later
in the afternoon I ride down to the BP service station
at the end of town to fill up the bike. Barcaldine
is on of those outback towns with a straight main
street that just continues past the houses and over
the horizon. The sight of the long straight road tells
me it's time to go.
Thu
30 May
We spend the morning packing up with only one drama
to mention. When I try to raise the deck the winch
dies as soon as a load was applied. Further investigation
reveals a faulty connection where the 12v battery
passes through the body of the house.
We
take the Blackall road, drive all of 15k, and pull
into the Lloyd Jones Weir. It's quite packed with
motorhomes and caravans but we find a nice sunny spot.
Some
friends, Mark & Gail from Canberra, are already
there and we mark out a spot for a fire and collect
some wood.

Fishing below the Lloyd Jones Weir. |
We
spend the evening cooking on and sitting around the
fire. Chris and I are rugged up like the Michelin
man but Mark just sits there in shorts and a t-shirt.
Presumably we've acclimatised to the heat and cannot
now handle the cold very well, whereas Mark &
Gail have only just left Canberra.
Fri
31 May
COLD! It was freezing last night, one of our neighbours
reported a four degree temperature in his van overnight.
I
had an extra blanket and was comfortable but Chris
slept wearing a hooded jacket and woke several times
to turn the electric blanket on.
The
fact that we have, and can use, electric blankets
illustrates a point about this lifestyle. Many people
say it must be great to be able to camp anywhere and
it is, but what we do is not really camping. This
is our house and we have almost all of the amenities
most people have in a conventional home. The main
difference is that we can easily move ours.
I
spend the day doing some maintenance on the truck
and in the evening we once again sit around a campfire.
Sun
2 Jun
Two degrees last night, time to move further north.
We have an extension lead that friends of ours loaned
to the CMCA for use at the rally and we plan to drop
it off to them at Longreach.
On
the way we stop at Ilfracombe for lunch and to have
a look at the collection of old farm machinery lining
the main street.
A Stuart tank that has been converted
into a bull dozer. The entire main street
of Ilfracombe is lined with interesting
old machinery.
The railway line at Infracombe, it's pretty
flat out here.
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Pulling
into the rest area 3k north of Longreach we are not
impressed with the large dustbowl that passes as a
camping area. We had been told that this was a nice
spot with campsites along the river so I investigate
on a motor bike.
The
sites on the river aren't bad but nothing to crow
about and the main area is just an expanse of sand.
To top it off there's a cold wind. Chris wants to
leave but I have a couple of things to do while we're
in a large town and the shops aren't open until tomorrow.
Next
Issue
We bolt north and finally reach Darwin after the usual
crop of mechanical dramas.
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