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 Living on the Road :: Wothahellizat : Articles : as3001

Caveat
This is my interpretation of parts of the wiring code for motorhomes and it is provided for your information only. The reading of this article does not qualify you to work with electricity. Get a qualified electrician to do your wiring.
Australian Standard #3001 covers "Electrical installations - Movable premises..." and is the main standard you have to comply with when wiring a motorhome.

The first part of the standard covers the site installations (in caravan parks etc) which doesn't interest us so let's look at the second part.

The standard is a little ambiguous in parts so you should consult an electrician and/or electrical inspector. Meanwhile here is my interpretation of the main parts based on consulting as above.

Circuit breakers
Each electrical circuit must be protected by circuit breakers. Furthermore there must be a breaker on each live conductor (active and neutral).

Residual Current Devices
Each electrical circuit must also be protected by a residual current device (RCD). These provide what used to be called earth leakage protection. In a correctly operating electrical circuit the current in the active line should match that in the neutral line. Any difference indicates current going somewhere it shouldn't, like through a human. An RCD monitors the current in both the active and neutral lines and trips if the difference is larger than 30mA.

Location of circuit breakers
All breakers, RCDs etc should be mounted in such a manner that they cannot be obstructed. If there is more than one breaker they should be mounted together or it should be clearly marked that there are other breakers.

Number of power points
On a registerable vehicle there is no limit to the number of power points (general purpose outlets or GPOs) per circuit.

Size and type of wire
The wire used must be double insulated and multi-stranded with at least 7 strands per conductor. Nothing special here really, this is normal multi-stranded household wire.

You can use wire with a cross section of 1.5mm however the standard states...

"Cables installed in a manner which is deemed to be completely surrounded in thermal insulation in accordance with AS3000, shall have a conductor cross-sectional area not less than 2.5mm"

"completely surrounded in thermal insulation" is open to interpretation and the inspector told me that the insulation of the motorhome body is considered to "completely surround" the wiring. Therefore I use 2.5mm cable everywhere.

There is a new wire available, with much thinner insulation, that still complies with the appropriate standards. Use this new wire, it's smaller and therefore easier to install.

Earth connector
Earth wires should have a strong mechanical connection, meaning bolts with star washers mounted directly onto the chassis. They should be in a position that cannot be damaged by stones etc and the connection hardware should be painted to stop corrosion.

Protection from damage
Wiring must protected from damage by virtue of location, conduits, battens etc.

When a wire passes through a metal bulkhead you must line the hole with a rubber grommet.

All holes and edges that a wire passes should be deburred (I also round off the edges of anything that goes near a cable).

Fixing
Wires should be mounted to limit movement and stress at termination points.

If unsupported by battens etc. wires should supported (by clips, saddles etc) at intervals not more than 300mm. If the wire is supported on a horizontal surface, eg. a batten, then it should be fixed at intervals not more than 500mm.

Switches
All 240v switches must switch both active conductors (active and neutral). The normal household switches do not meet this requirement however you can easily buy double pole mechanisms and they fit the normal wall/architrave plates or GPOs.

The reason for this requirement is that you are connecting to the grid via an extension lead and a caravan park fitting of unkown heritage. You cannot guarantee that either has been wired correctly.

External low-voltage outlets
External sockets must be rated at IP24 or better (IP ratings detail the level of protection, weather and otherwise, provided by an enclosure. I'll cover them in an other article later).

Extra-low-voltage outlets
Extra-low-voltage (ie. 12 and 24v) outlets must be of a type that cannot be confused with the 240v sockets.

Appliances
All appliances must be controlled by a switch mounted on or adjacent to the appliance. "Adjacent to" is also open to interpretation but basically means "in the same room". The reasoning is that you should be able to see the appliance you are about to turn on/off.

Segregation of wiring
In a nutshell, low and extra-low voltage wiring should be segregated. The standard allows the wires to be located next to each other if the insulation of the extra-low voltage wire equals or exceeds that of the low voltage wiring.

Personally I think it's better to physically separate the two types of wiring by using separate conduits, ducts etc. Part of the reason for this is induction, if you lay a 240v AC wire alongside another wire (even if the second wire is totally unconnected) a voltage can be induced into the second wire. I've heard of as much as 50v appearing on a wire that is not connected to anything.

Location of the shore power inlet
The location of the shore power inlet should be in the area indicated by the shading in the following diagram.

The above diagram is as per the spec but one sparky I had around didn't think the position mattered, his priority was that it must be able to be quickly removed, ie grab and yank. I said that that's a problem because people regularly steal them. On the other hand the inspector seemed happy with the inlet being inside the rig. The spec says that the inlet must be "easily accessable" and he says that this referrs to the owner not the general public so as long as it's easy to get at, even if you need a key or somesuch, then that's OK.

The inlet must be earthed and mounted such that the earth pin is in the lowest position.

 

 

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