| Australian
Standard #3001 covers "Electrical installations -
Movable premises..." and is the main standard you
have to comply with when wiring a motorhome. The
first part of the standard covers the site installations
(in caravan parks etc) which doesn't interest us so
let's look at the second part.
The
standard is a little ambiguous in parts so you should
consult an electrician and/or electrical inspector.
Meanwhile here is my interpretation of the main parts
based on consulting as above.
Circuit
breakers
Each electrical circuit must be protected by circuit
breakers. Furthermore there must be a breaker on each
live conductor (active and neutral).
Residual
Current Devices
Each electrical circuit must also be protected by
a residual current device (RCD). These provide what
used to be called earth leakage protection. In a correctly
operating electrical circuit the current in the active
line should match that in the neutral line. Any difference
indicates current going somewhere it shouldn't, like
through a human. An RCD monitors the current in both
the active and neutral lines and trips if the difference
is larger than 30mA.
Location
of circuit breakers
All breakers, RCDs etc should be mounted in such a
manner that they cannot be obstructed. If there is
more than one breaker they should be mounted together
or it should be clearly marked that there are other
breakers.
Number
of power points
On a registerable vehicle there is no limit to the
number of power points (general purpose outlets or
GPOs) per circuit.
Size
and type of wire
The wire used must be double insulated and multi-stranded
with at least 7 strands per conductor. Nothing special
here really, this is normal multi-stranded household
wire.
You
can use wire with a cross section of 1.5mm however
the standard states...
"Cables
installed in a manner which is deemed to be completely
surrounded in thermal insulation in accordance with
AS3000, shall have a conductor cross-sectional area
not less than 2.5mm"
"completely
surrounded in thermal insulation" is open to
interpretation and the inspector told me that the
insulation of the motorhome body is considered to
"completely surround" the wiring. Therefore
I use 2.5mm cable everywhere.
There
is a new wire available, with much thinner insulation,
that still complies with the appropriate standards.
Use this new wire, it's smaller and therefore easier
to install.
Earth
connector
Earth wires should have a strong mechanical connection,
meaning bolts with star washers mounted directly onto
the chassis. They should be in a position that cannot
be damaged by stones etc and the connection hardware
should be painted to stop corrosion.
Protection
from damage
Wiring must protected from damage by virtue of location,
conduits, battens etc.
When
a wire passes through a metal bulkhead you must line
the hole with a rubber grommet.
All
holes and edges that a wire passes should be deburred
(I also round off the edges of anything that
goes near a cable).
Fixing
Wires should be mounted to limit movement and stress
at termination points.
If
unsupported by battens etc. wires should supported
(by clips, saddles etc) at intervals not more than
300mm. If the wire is supported on a horizontal surface,
eg. a batten, then it should be fixed at intervals
not more than 500mm.
Switches
All 240v switches must switch both active conductors
(active and neutral). The normal household switches
do not meet this requirement however you can easily
buy double pole mechanisms and they fit the normal
wall/architrave plates or GPOs.
The
reason for this requirement is that you are connecting
to the grid via an extension lead and a caravan park
fitting of unkown heritage. You cannot guarantee that
either has been wired correctly.
External
low-voltage outlets
External sockets must be rated at IP24 or better (IP
ratings detail the level of protection, weather and
otherwise, provided by an enclosure. I'll cover them
in an other article later).
Extra-low-voltage
outlets
Extra-low-voltage (ie. 12 and 24v) outlets must be
of a type that cannot be confused with the 240v sockets.
Appliances
All appliances must be controlled by a switch mounted
on or adjacent to the appliance. "Adjacent to"
is also open to interpretation but basically means
"in the same room". The reasoning is that
you should be able to see the appliance you are about
to turn on/off.
Segregation
of wiring
In a nutshell, low and extra-low voltage wiring should
be segregated. The standard allows the wires to be
located next to each other if the insulation
of the extra-low voltage wire equals or exceeds that
of the low voltage wiring.
Personally
I think it's better to physically separate the two
types of wiring by using separate conduits, ducts
etc. Part of the reason for this is induction, if
you lay a 240v AC wire alongside another wire (even
if the second wire is totally unconnected) a voltage
can be induced into the second wire. I've heard of
as much as 50v appearing on a wire that is not connected
to anything.
Location
of the shore power inlet
The location of the shore power inlet should be in
the area indicated by the shading in the following
diagram.

The
above diagram is as per the spec but one sparky
I had around didn't think the position mattered,
his priority was that it must be able to be quickly
removed, ie grab and yank. I said that that's
a problem because people regularly steal them.
On the other hand the inspector seemed happy with
the inlet being inside the rig. The spec says
that the inlet must be "easily accessable"
and he says that this referrs to the owner not
the general public so as long as it's easy to
get at, even if you need a key or somesuch, then
that's OK.
The
inlet must be earthed and mounted such that the earth
pin is in the lowest position. |