18 Feb 2008
Despite the lack of activity on the web site
there has been a lot happening, a thousand small and mostly uninteresting
jobs. I've added stays to most of the shutters, fire-proof lining
around the cooker, insulation around the oven etc.
We've also been working
on the roof for the past day or so. We're using all the solar panels
from Wothahellizat 1 and it's a pretty tight fit.
In keeping with my "no holes in the roof
unless absolutely unavoidable" policy the panels will not be
screwed directly to the roof.
Rather I have placed aluminium battens across
the vehicle, these are glued to the roof sheets and will also have
their ends riveted to the gutter when that's installed.
We have eight Uni Solar 64w panels and two Kyocera
120s but I have allowed space to upgrade two of the 64w panels with
two of the new 165/170w jobs that are similar in area but longer
The roof layout.
As you can see the panels cover most of the roof
which is a good thing because they form what's known as a "tropical
roof", a cooling device I have only seen in Africa and Australia.
To keep the vehicle cool it helps to park in the
shade, but of course this isn't always possible or even desirable
when you need the sun for power. So the solution is to carry your
own shade in the form of a second roof mounted above the vehicle's
main roof with an air gap of an inch or so separating the two.
This tropical roof cops most of the heat and the
air gap allows convection currents to carry the heat away.
As the solar panels are mounted on 1" battens
they make a pretty good tropical roof, the small amount of roof
not covered by panels will have timber sheets mounted to the battens
to act as shade givers and also provide somewhere to walk.
In Wothahellizat 1 I used timber battens and aluminium
sheets for the walking areas, but I've reversed the arrangement
this time mostly because the timber battens where beginning to rot.
Tue 19 Feb
I'm adding the solar
panel battens today. As mentioned before, in order not to pierce the
roof with fasteners these battens are glued along their entire length
and will be mechanically fastened to the gutter trim on the ends.
The battens have been bent but not
cut to size so they are still too long and are resting on the gutters.
As the roof is slightly gabled the battens have
to follow the same curve. This is easily done by cutting part of
the way through the aluminium box section and bending it. If I was
doing this in steel I'd weld up the cut, but I can't weld aluminium
so I'll just apply liberal amounts of gorilla snot (sealant) to
fill the gap.
By cutting part way through the aluminium
I can bend it to any angle I like and retain most of the strength
of the box section.
After cleaning and priming I apply Sikaflex and
stick the battens down. Once that's done we paint the roof with
Penetrol, it takes about 24 hours to dry so that's it for the roof
I then start making the shelves for the camera
Wed 20 Feb
The Penetrol is dry so Chris can paint the roof with Thermashield,
a special insulating and sealing paint for motorhome roofs.
The recently Penetrolled roof.
The battens have to go from edge to edge across
the roof but I still need to allow water to flow along the gutter
so it can reach the drains. To facilitate this I cut out some sections
from the ends of the battens.
The cut out section on the batten
ends (circled) and the down pipe fitting used upside down to stop
surface water entering the hole in the roof.
Also notice the upturned down pipe connector in
the above photo. I need a hole in the roof to pass all the aerial
and solar cables and there's a few ways ways to do that.
For example you can try to seal the holes around
the wires with glue or use proper cable glands for each wire. The
glue option never works. The cable glands do work but I'd need one
for each wire (about 12 of them) and they only seal if you're using
round wires, not figure-eight as will be used for the solar panels.
Another method is to not even try to seal the
hole, just use a large opening with a high surrounding lip to stop
surface water from entering, then cover it over with something,
in this case I'll use one of the solar panels.
We used this method in Wothahallizat 1, I had
a huge hole through which I passed several wires but which also
acted as a vent. In six years it never even looked like leaking.
Thu 21 Feb
We're sleeping in the truck for the first time tonight, very exciting.
Not that it's ready to move in, but our normal bedroom (the Landcruiser)
is full of junk we're taking up to our container tomorrow.
Fri 22 Feb
Well that worked a treat, it was very comfortable, the only problem
was mosquitoes as we have no netting up in the windows yet. Actually,
even if we did have netting it wouldn't make much difference because
we don't have any walls either.
It takes all day to drive up to our land, talk
to some neighbours, drop off the stuff and return. One thing we
learned is that just about all the neighbouring blocks have sold
recently, and that ours has increased in value by 70% over the last
After all the losses we've made over the years
it's nice to have a win for a change.
Sat 23 Feb
We burned a mosquito coil last night and that did the trick, no
mossie bites all night.
Thu 21 Feb
I'm about to start mounting
the solar panels, but first I want to test an idea.
In an attempt to further cut down the heat the
reaching the roof I've decided to add insulation under the panels.
There are two questions though, will it make much difference, and
will it affect the efficiency of the panels.
Most solar panels derate considerably when they
get hot, for example the 120-watt Kyocera panels drop their output
to 87 watts with the cell temperature at 45° and insulating
behind them probably won't help as it will reduce the airflow.
To help overcome this I've drilled holes along
the sides of the panels and left air gaps in the insulation.
The presumed airflow through and
under the panels.
Testing the insulation underneath
a Kyocera 120w panel.
I leave a half-insulated panel out in the sun
to see how it goes. The area under the insulation is certainly cooler
than the other non-insulated half, but the panel above it is also
I'll go ahead with the idea and we'll see how
it works over time. One thing in our favour is that eight of the
ten panels we have are Uni Solar panels and these don't derate in
Tue 4 Mar
The panels are installed, they can be hinged on one side for maintenance.
The roof is almost entirely covered
in solar panels. What's not is plywood tropical roof (the grey bits)
or reserved for aerials.
Here's another view that also looks
down into the bedroom and kitchen.
Wed 5 Mar
Doing the solar wiring
today. I've added blocking diodes although from what I've seen most
people don't bother with them.
In theory, when it's dark, the batteries can discharge
back through the panels. I think this discharge current is very
small and only a problem when a motorhome is kept for long periods
in the dark which presumably will not be the case with ours once
we get it out of this workshop.
There is however a reason not to use diodes, and
that is that you get a small voltage drop over them and therefore
a small loss of power. I'll put them in the circuit though partly
because I'm using Schottky diodes which have a very low voltage
drop, and partly because I've had the diodes for years and may as
well use them.
The solar wiring. The wires from
the panels (5 off, one per pair of panels) enter at the top of the
photo and connect to the blocking diodes on the right. From there
they go to the relay where they are joined. The current leaves the
relay in a thick wire and goes to the regulator. Mouse over the
photo to highlight some of the details.
I've also run the wiring through a change over
relay, when fully wired this will allow me to bypass the regulator
and connect the panels directly to the batteries.
Once again I'm not convinced that this is a great
idea but I know that our regulator does not appear to allow much
absorption time and I would like to be able to force more charge
into the batteries manually.
When our batteries are charged they should be
taken to about 28.8 volts and held there for a period of time known
as the absorption time before dropping them back to the float level
of 26.7 volts. Our inverter/charger will hold them at the absorption
voltage for two hours, however the solar regulator seems to go straight
into float once the 28.8v level is reached.
The abovementioned relay will allow me to override
the regulator and force the system to continue charging the batteries.
Of course one has to be careful here, you can damage batteries if
the voltage gets too high.
Once again, time will tell if this is a good idea.
Tue 11 Mar
We're working on stays
for the time being and it seems that every shutter requires a different
design for its stay.
Some are simple pieces of RHS that prop the shutter
open, while others are telescopic with spring-loaded pins that lock
the stay at the correct length.
The simplest way I can think of to make a spring-loaded
pin is just to weld the pin to a lenght of flat bar and weld the
other end of the bar to the outer part of the stay.
The trouble with this is that the "spring"
is just made from mild steel and I'm worried that it will eventually
stay bent out and not hold the pin in. If this happens there would
be no way to bend the spring back as I would have to bend it past
the stay so it can return to the correct position.
So just in case this happens I've offset the spring,
this gives me something to bend if I have to reshape it.
One of the more complicated stays,
showing detail of the spring that holds the pin. The pin that does
the locking is not visible here as it's inside the stay, I've extended
it through the spring to form a small handle and that's the part
you see here.
I've also spent a great deal of time working on
the rear shutter/deck roof. This shutter is actually two in one,
the whole thing can open as per a normal shutter, but there's another
shutter within that. By leaving the main part closed and opening
the inner shutter two windows are revealed.
This design should allow this rear wall to be
totally open when the area is being used as a deck, partially open
when the weather is nice and the area is being used as part of the
lounge room, closed to the elements but allowing us to see out when
the weather is bad, or totally closed when driving or at night.
Confused? Hopefully when it's all finished I can
post some photos that make it clearer, meanwhile here's how it looks
The deck in its open position.
Thu 13 Mar
While installing the solar
panels the other day I realised that we really need a ladder to access
much of the roof. While it's easy enough to climb onto the roof through
the hatches, you can't move around much because it's not a great idea
to walk on solar panels. This will make cleaning and general maintenance
So we need a ladder, but were to store it?. We
looked at those telescopic ones, they would be easy to store but
they're pretty heavy and cost a fortune.
We finally decide on a cheap extension ladder
and figure that we can store it under the body between the rear
wheels. I even make some brackets to do this but then realise that
we may have problems with the chassis hitting the ladder when it
When mounted in this location I have about 200mm
(8") clearance between the wheels and the ladder and the wheel
travel is only about 150mm so in theory that shouldn't be a problem.
But when the chassis twists this clearance will reduce, also the
ladder is fairly close to the tool boxes which are mounted on the
chassis. They could also hit when the chassis twists.
So I have to find somewhere else to mount the
ladder, and Chris comes up with the idea of hanging it under the
motor bike trap door.
The ladder mounted under the motor
This will make the trapdoor slightly heavier to
lift into place and may impede the winch cable a tad, but apart
from that it's a pretty good place to store the ladder.
I also have to cut the ladder down a bit because
it's over 2.4m (8 feet) in length and the truck body is only 2350mm
Mon 17 Mar
Now that the ladder
is taken care of, what can I do with that potential storage area?
There's a cranny 500mm wide and varying in depth between 75 and 150mm,
it's the full width of the truck and just crying out to have something
long and thin stored there.
Initially I planned to put the shovel, spade,
axe, and related "gardening" tools there and have them
slide out on a long tray. But although there's 150mm of height inside
the body, anything that slides out has to pass through a 75mm gap
and two of the tools are over 75mm in height. I could hinge the
compartment and drop it down but then it would be difficult to reach
in and unclamp the various items.
I've figured it out, I'll make a tool rack that
both slides out and drops down. I've also decided
that, rather than make a single rack that spans the entire body,
I'll make two that go roughly half way, so some items will be accessed
from one side and some from the other.
Each rack is just a hinged frame with assorted
cradles and clamps to hold the odd-shaped tools in place. I will
not sheet it in to form a tray as this will only collect dirt, although
the tools are over the wheels and will cop a lot of crap, especially
if we get into some mud. I may add a small amount of sheeting to
protect them from the majority of the stuff thrown up by the wheels.
Wed 19 Mar
Today I'm building a mount
for the spare water tank. In all we have seven tanks, two banks of
three make up the main water storage inside the body, while the seventh
tank will be mounted under the chassis and provide an outside source
of water for washing hands etc.
It's other purpose is to provide an emergency
supply if we have a major leak and loose all the water from the
There's a lockable tap on this tank but of course
most taps and valves provide no convenient method of mounting, so
much time is spent building a mount to hold the tap securely.
The mount for the water tank's tap.
The round body of the tap sits in the cradle formed from two pieces
of flat bar, and is clamped down using a bar across the threaded
Thu 20 Mar
With the water tank mount and the tool racks finished I pull them
all out and set up the wash bay as a spray booth.
Some of the recently-sprayed components.
The water tank mount in in the foreground, with one of the tool
racks hanging behind it.
Some of the brackets that hold the
tools firmly in place. No wonder it takes so long to build a motorhome.
The finished left side tool rack.
Here's the outlet from the tank connected
to the tap with some vinyl tube. As the tank hangs below the chassis
the tap and outlet are potentially at risk from sticks etc so they're
mounted on top of bash plates.
The finished tank mount ready for
And installed. The tank sits up inside
the chassis rails and hangs down by about 200mm (8").