| Fri
2 Nov
Gavin and Tracy (of hobohome.com
fame) arrive today. Their bus has a Mini Moke stored
in the back, it's a tight fit but the system works
well.
  
The bus disgorges a moke.
The
bus used to belong to other friends of ours Mark and
Gail (motorhominglifestyle.com)
and they engineered the emerging moke several years
ago.
With
their light weight, lowerable suspension and convertible
roof Mokes are ideal for this application. They're
getting hard to find though.
Sat
3 Nov
I'm working on infilling the frame, which is to say
adding all the short pieces of steel needed to support
partitions, shelves, appliances etc. It's very fiddly
work that consumes masses of steel and before long
the truck has eaten about five lengths of 20x20 RHS.
It's difficult to see where it's all gone though.
Gavin
helps by cutting the lengths so I just have to measure
and weld.
At
night we sit around and talk motorhoming, photography,
and electronics, my favourite subjects, although I
haven't done much with electronics for several years.
Sun
4 Nov
I start on the bedroom hatch doors today. Like everything
on this truck it needs a fancy hinge so there's quite
some time involved proving that not only the main
shutter works, but also the parallel hinges that are
for the fly screens.

The blue parts are folded flat bar
that connects the body and the hatch to the continuous
hinge.
The
pivot point of the hinge has to be high so the hatch
folds over the adjacent solar panels (yet to be installed),
and the weird shape of the folded flat bar allows
the roof sheet (in green) to protrude lower than the
hatch to help with waterproofing (a timber surround
to be added later will complete the overhang).
Mon
5 Nov
The bedroom hatch is mostly finished.

The
bedroom hatch nears completion.
Having
done that I return to adding fiddly bits for cupboards
etc. BOORING, and not worth photographing or talking
about really.
Thu
8 Nov
I confess to hitting a bit of a wall lately. Basically
I'm getting sick of having to figure out how to make
things work and sick of being showered in red-hot
welding spatter.
Fortunately
I'm within days of finishing the main fabrication
part of the project. Hopefully moving to the cladding
and fit out will help.
This
"wall" probably explains why the postings
here have been a little less frequent of late, although
the other reason is that my interest in electronics
has been rekindled lately. It's been over ten years
since I did any work with embedded microprocessors
and I've been spending time at night researching what's
going on in that world.
There's
some pretty interesting stuff around these days and
I can feel some gadgets for the truck coming on, a
speedo would be nice (the current one is broken),
some fridge temperature and duty cycle monitors would
be a plus, maybe a trip meter, battery monitor, gas
alarm...
Fri
9 Nov
One of the main jobs lately has been the the motorbike
box, but let me go back a few months.
Originally
the idea was to just have the motorbike stored at
the rear of the lounge room and lower it from the
ceiling with a winch. However we decided that this
would look too messy, and instead we would store the
bike in a box and lower the box with bike inside.
So
now we're starting to build the mechanism to lower
the box.
I
need some runners to guide the box as it lowers, mostly
because the truck may not be level at the time. So
I came up with this design.
The
runner will consist of a length of 50x50 angle mounted
to each side of the box and some bearings mounted
to the body.

Two cross sections through the bearing
blocks and angle that form the runners. The top one
shows the bearings, and the bottom one the mounting
bolt that allows for adjustment. Adjustment is required
because the two tracks (the ^ shape) must be exactly
parallel.
With
the bearings at 45° I only need eight as each
effectively works in two directions.
 
Two close ups of the bearing assembly,
made from a piece of angle with a section removed
and flat bar welded in place.
After
making four bearing assemblies I weld them in pairs
to some angle (to ensure they're aligned) then mount
them to the body.

Two of the mounted bearing assemblies.
This pair and the two on the other side of the body
must be exactly parallel, hence the adjustment bolts
at top and bottom.
Sat
10 Nov
I start this morning by making the base for the motorbike
box.
After
some time though we think about what we're doing and
decide to scrap the whole idea and return to the original
plan.
So
now we will lower the bike through the floor of the
lounge room. This is a massive saving in complexity
and weight, at the expense of being slightly less
automated.
Wed
14 Nov
I built the bicycle storage today. We've had Mongoose
folding mountain bikes for several years but hardly
ever used them and we were not going to include them
in the new design.
However
we changed our minds a couple of weeks ago and now
have to find somewhere to put them.
The
decision is to store them in the ceiling above the
deck. This will reduce the headroom considerably in
this area but our reasoning is that the deck area
is mostly for sitting in deck chairs and therefore
headroom isn't an absolute necessity. Of course this
area is also an extension to the lounge room and extra
headroom would be nice when it's being used as such.
Bad
luck, when you're trying to pack a lot of stuff into
a small motorhome you have to make compromises.
Thu
15 Nov
Having largely finished the push bike storage it's
time to think about the motor bike.
As
mentioned before this will be raised into the lounge
room /deck through a trapdoor and I plan to use one
of the Superwinches we have. But when I try the winch
it doesn't work.
Plan
B is to use the hoist that we used in Wothahellizat
1. I've been wary of using it this time because I
cannot find the manufacturer or indeed any information
about it, and I get paranoid about using anything
that has no support for parts etc.

The
Uni Hosen hoist, made in China.
It's
an increasing problem these days, a local company
imports 1000 widgets from China at a good price and
sells them off. Then they either drop them like a
hot potato or the manufacturer moves on to making
something else. Either way you're orphaned.
To
be fair this hoist has been reliable and as it's rated
at 400kg, only lifting 100kg, and used infrequently
so I'm confidant that it will be OK.
As
a backup though I'll make sure that we can use our
block and tackle.
Anyway
there are advantages to using this hoist, firstly
it's just that, a hoist not a winch, which means that
it's designed (and rated) for lifting dead weights.
The Superwinches work OK but they are not designed
for lifting, just pulling. Secondly, the hoist is
240v which means that I don't have to add a 12v battery
near the device.
The
reason a 12v winch would need a local battery is that
it pulls 20-30 amps when in use and our system is
mainly 24 volts with provision for only about 10 amps
on the 12-volt circuit.
After
some ado I can lift the motorbike into it's new home.

The motorbike in place, Hugo's Unimog
in the background.
Fri
16 Nov
We've pretty much got the motor bike loading and securing
sorted. Now there's just a few things to work on (like
adding mounts for draw runners) and then we can undercoat
the internal steel.
Sun
18 Nov
Most of the infill is done, by "infill"
I mean the myriad of steel pieces that are needed
to mount stuff.
I
haven't posted any photos because it's not that interesting
and also really difficult to photograph. But here's
an attempt.

The skeleton of the utilities area,
pretty straightforward eh?

And here's a shot that's a little easier
to understand.
As
you may realise it's all been painted which was today's
job, at least until I run out of paint at which time
we switch to cutting the the partitions and shelves
from sheet steel.
Wed
21 Nov
I had a small computer scare today, things
started acting up until the machine rebooted itself,
or at least tried to. It wouldn't restart so after
several attempts we decided to do what we usually
do in these situations, nothing. Often computers fix
themselves if let be for a while.
Meanwhile
I'm wondering how long it's been since I backed up
(nearly a month) and how much work I've done in that
time. A lot as it happens, not to mention the last
eight months worth of truck construction photos that
have never been burnt to DVD and only exist on my
hard disk.
Sure
enough, half an hour later it starts just fine, and
its first task is to run a belated backup. When it
comes to backups I'm probably better than most people,
but only because most people never
backup their important stuff.
My
next job is to dust off my external hard drive and
mirror my working directory to it, a task that I'm
supposed to perform every night.
That
was the best kind of scare, one that causes no harm
but that makes you get your act together.
Thu
22 Nov
It seems that I've done nothing but sheet for the
last couple of days, no no I said sheet,
I've been making the interior partitions.
One
reason it's taken so long is that there has been a
lot of folding, cutting and thinking to do as I try
to partition the gas and water sections both from
each other and from the rest of the house.
This
partitioning of gas and water is supposed to contain
and vent any leaks. Obviously it's important to allow
gas to escape, but It's also a good idea to give water
somewhere to go if a pipe bursts.
With
the way the utilities area is designed any stray water
should find its way to the sump in the shower area.
Another
complication is to provide an escape path for hot
air created by the hot water system.
All
in all it's been something of a challenge, but I think
it's all done now.
 
A couple of views showing the new partitions
with a light coat of etching primer.
So
far we've manage to do all of the partitioning using
off cuts of the .75mm steel we used for the roof and
floors.
As
you can see I construct most of the cupboards and
storage compartments from steel, they are an integral
part of the frame. This is probably harder to do than
the "normal" technique of building a box
then fitting it out. However it makes the frame very
strong, and anyway, despite starting my working life
as a carpenter I'd rather work with steel than wood.
We
used this method in Wothahellizat 1 and it worked
well, so if it ain't broke...
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